Cultural Cuba – Winnipeg Free Press

Cuba is a country of extremes.

There’s no arguing it boasts an extremely lush landscape, a country full of warm-hearted people and a history that reads like a well-crafted suspense novel. It’s also a place where economic challenges make it hard for people to make ends meet. Food and fuel shortages, ration books and medicine that’s hard to access are factors in everyday life for its 11 million residents.

All of this, of course, begs the question: should you travel to a place that’s experiencing hardship?

PHOTOS BY SHEL ZOLKEWICH / FREE PRESS

At the western tip of Cuba lies the Viñales Valley, a landscape surrounded by mountains, with farms, fields and brightly painted wooden houses nestled in.

The answer is a resounding yes. Cuba relies heavily on tourism and Canadians top the list of visitors. Pre-pandemic numbers show over a million of us visited the island nation every year. And in economically challenging times for Canadians too, Cuba is one of the most economical trips to be had during our winter season.

Getting to the beach is easy. For example, Sunwing Vacations offers three departures every week to the blue-water, white-sand destination of Varadero. But if you’ve been to the beach, and want to swap sandals for sneakers, head to Havana for a deep dive into Cuban culture.

Art on every corner

The wide boulevard of Paseo del Prado is a daily outdoor art gallery. Canvases featuring Havana’s iconic (and still-running) 1950s American cars are in no short supply. But there’s also plenty of original art — thought-provoking images of a brain with a water tap attached, collages of newspaper clippings and historical paintings of Spanish galleons.

In between, vendors offer chips, drinks and baked goods while teenagers whoosh by on roller blades.

Anier Boffill shows off cigars hand-rolled at his family farm in the Viñales region of Cuba.

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes is housed in two locations, both containing collections that can only be called provocative. The Arte Cubano building is a modern beauty, holding Cuban art from the last century, including the big-limbed creations by Mariano Rodriguez from the 1930s. The Arte Universal collection rests in a grand palace overlooking Parque Central and including works from artists around the world, plenty of it modern. The building itself is an attraction, including the cafeteria that’s clad in colourful tiles and sells a delicious and budget-friendly grilled-shrimp plate.

Modern or colonial?

The city’s neighbourhoods include Centro, Miramar, Vedado, Chinatown and Habana Vieja (Old Havana) and accommodations in each reflect the particular vibe of the area. Along Paseo del Prado, the division between Centro and Old Havana, the Mystique Habana Hotel is all about old-world charm inside the 1900s building. Soaring ceilings and Juliet balconies delight travellers who love the vintage feel, but crave all the modern amenities. Down the street at Royalton Habana, it’s all about modern esthetics with a glass-fronted location along the Malecón, Havana’s broad esplanade/seawall that stretches for miles along the Caribbean coast. Here’s there’s a spa, rooftop lounge and an infinity pool overlooking the sea. Many hotels in Havana offer a European plan, meaning breakfast-only. It’s a great opportunity to explore the food scene for dinner.

Cuban cuisine

We’ve all heard the comments — the food in Cuba is terrible. It’s just not true. Granted, the food at all-inclusive resorts can be repetitive and uninspired, but in Havana, it’s the opposite. At Esto No Es Un Café, just off the popular Plaza de la Catedral, a grilled lobster was charred to perfection and served with a spicy salsa, rice, salad and plantain. The special came with a mojito and coffee for about the equivalent of $28 in Canadian currency. At Lo De Monik in Old Havana, the cosy white-and-blue restaurant serves excellent breakfasts, creative cocktails and tacos made from the national dish, ropa vieja (shredded braised beef.) For equal parts atmosphere, excellent service and delicious food, head to Ivan Chef Justo where the extensive menu is heavy on seafood. The fish ceviche is a standout, especially when served with a side of spicy potatoes and lobster dumplings.

Shel Zolkewich / Free Press

Sunrise from a Juliet balcony of Mystique Habana Hotel.

Day trip: Viñales

At the western tip of Cuba lies the Viñales Valley, a landscape surrounded by mountains, with farms and fields in between and brightly painted wooden houses complete with front porches. In this picturesque region, tobacco is king and it’s common to see farmers in their fields tending to crops and transporting goods by horse and buggy. The day trip from Havana includes a visit to a working tobacco farm and a cigar-rolling demonstration (you can purchase directly from the farm). Also included is a boat ride inside one of the region’s caves and stops at lookout point that best showcase the mountains and valley. NexusTours will pick you up at your hotel for the day’s excursion, plus you can book online.

When you go

Sunwing offers three weekly, direct departures to Havana from Winnipeg. Packages most often are on the European plan, which means breakfast-only. You’ll land in Varadero and be transported to Havana, about two hours away.

American dollars are widely accepted at restaurants and for taxi rides. You’ll need to get some Cuban pesos for admissions to museums and art galleries, and it’s also handy for leaving tips.

Shel Zolkewich / Free Press

The national dish, Ropa Vieja, is served taco style at Lo De Monik, a cosy café.

Yes, there’s a beach! Playas de Estes is a collection of beaches about 20 minutes east of Havana. Jump on the T3 on-off bus at Parque Central for US$10 and visit Playa Santa Maria where there are food and drink stands, and beach chairs and umbrellas for rent.

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