With both water and land options, Chaffey’s Lock provides one of the more eclectic stops along … [+] Canada’s historic Rideau Canal.
PHOTO BY JULIA CLERK YOGERST
Stretching 126 miles (202 km) between Ottawa and Lake Ontario, the Rideau Canal is one of Canada’s most popular national parks. Yet it’s barely known outside of the Maple Leaf nation.
Both a Parks Canada national historic site and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Rideau meanders through the Ontario backcountry along a route pioneered centuries ago by First Nations people and French voyageurs.
Although the entire route is considered the Rideau Canal, much of it runs across large lakes or through narrow, tree-flanked passages that were once streams or rivers.
There are myriad islands, marshy wetlands flush with birdlife, and country towns with vintage churches, artsy stores, waterfront eateries and cool places to spend the night.
Along the way are 46 locks to lift boats up and down, and 22 lock stations for the lockmaster and his or her staff who oversee the canal. Whether or not you explore the Rideau by road or water, these historic structures are the high point of any journey.
Parks Canada rents out three historic Lockmaster’s Houses including this Victorian-era beauty at … [+] Beverages Lock.
PHOTO BY JULIA CLERK YOGERST
Blame It On The Yanks
It took six years (1826-1832) to construct what was then the largest engineering project undertaken in British-ruled Canada.
Similar canals were developed during the same era in Europe and the U.S. Those were mainly intended to expedite trade, commerce and industry. On the other hand, the Rideau had a much different original purpose.
Following the U.S. War of Independence and the War of 1812 when American forces invaded north of the border, the British and their Canadian colonists were fearful it might happen again.
Just in case it did occur — and the Yanks were able to capture the strategic St. Lawrence River Valley — it was decided to build what was basically an emergency backup waterway protected by stout wooden blockhouses inland from the St. Lawrence.
That never happened, of course. The canal never saw a shot fired in anger. But because it was much easier to navigate than the rapid-strewn St. Lawrence, the Rideau enjoyed a brief but prosperous commercial heyday during which it provided a convenient means to convey goods back and forth between Quebec and Ontario.
With the advent of railroads and locks on the St. Lawrence, the canal was little used and largely forgotten by the turn of the 20th century. Parks Canada declared it a national historic site in 1925. It was around that same time that locals began to recognize the Rideau for its recreational potential.
It wasn’t until 2007, when UNESCO designated the waterway as a World Heritage Site, that the canal got much traction outside of Canada.
UNESCO calls the Rideau “the best-preserved example of a slackwater canal in North America, demonstrating the use of this European technology on a large scale. It is the only canal dating from the great North American canal-building era of the early 19th century to remain operational along its original line with most of its structures intact.”
The Rideau Canal can be explore by kayak, canoe or motorboat, hiking, biking or even a vehicular … [+] road trip.
PHOTO BY JOE YOGERST
Rideau Canal Highlights
Whether you’re passing through on a boat or watching from the shore, locks are far and away the best part of Rideau experience.
The most famous are the awesome Ottawa Locks, eight in total which drop almost 80 feet (24 meters) to the Ottawa River between Parliament Hill and the castle-like Fairmont Château Laurier hotel. Whenever the locks are working, there’s always a crowd on Wellington Street Bridge watching the action.
Heading southbound by road or water, Merrickville was named for a Loyalist who fled to Canada during the American Revolution and was once named Canada’s “Most Beautiful Village.” One of the original blockhouses overlooks the canal, while the old town is filled with art galleries and craft stories.
Next up is Smiths Falls, the last large outpost of civilization before the canal meanders into the backcountry. Besides multiple locks, a leafy waterfront park and spectacular waterfall, the one-time mill town boasts the excellent Railway Museum of Eastern Ontario and great eating spots like the Lockmaster’s Taphouse and C’est Tout Bakery & Bistro.
Part of the mural beneath the bridge at Rideau Ferry.
Photo by Julia Clerk Yogerst
South of Smiths Falls, the watery route makes its way across several lakes and through the narrow channel at Rideau Ferry. The historic ferry is long gone, replaced by a modern highway bridge. Beneath the bridge are Adirondack chairs for contemplating the view and a colorful mural depicting the canal’s history. On the bluff behind Jimmy’s Snack Shack (pizza and Greek dishes) and the vintage Rideau Ferry Store & Gas Bar (which hawks terrific ice cream).
With its busy harbor and photogenic church steeples, Westport lies at the far end of the three big Rideau Lakes. The eccentric Village Green store (which seems to sell about everything) is a legend in these parts, while waterfront Westport Brewery and hilltop Scheuermann Winery offer awesome venues for food and drink.
Chaffey’s Lock is probably the best all-around lock along the entire canal. Upstream is a calm, curving channel that’s ideal for kayaking, paddleboarding or swimming. Boaters can step ashore to hike or bike part of the 65-mile (104-km) Cataraqui Trail, which crosses the canal on an old railroad bridge. The Lockmaster’s House features a small museum, while The Opinicon offers a bygone setting for upscale meals.
With a drop of more than 130 feet (40 meters), the triple locks at Jones Falls provide another great chance to watch boats rising and falling. Nearby is the Great Stone Arch Dam, the highest in North America when completed in 1831.
The Rideau pours into Lake Ontario in Kingston, a waterfront burg with several claims to fame including Canada’s national military academy, Queen’s University, a notorious prison (now a museum), and the fact that for a brief time it was the national capital (1841-1844).
Cabin cruisers docked along the Rideau Canal at the Le Boat base in Smiths Falls.
PHOTO BY JULIA CLERK YOGERST
Navigating the Route Today
Boating, driving and hiking are the three options for exploring the Rideau Canal.
Canoes, kayaks, speedboats and cabin cruisers are best for undertaking a multi-day water journey. Parks Canada permits are mandatory for transiting the locks or mooring overnight at lock stations. There are also fees for camping, power hookups, mooring, lock use and other activities.
Those who don’t have their own watercraft can hire one from Le Boat. With bases in Ottawa and Smith Falls, the company offers self-drive journeys of 4-15 days on cabin cruisers equipped with kitchens, bathrooms, hot-water showers, navigation aids and extras like bikes, kayaks and paddleboards.
Le Boat vessels sleep anywhere from two to 12 people. No boating license is required, but designated skippers must take a one-hour orientation and driving practice prior to setting off along the canal. Passengers have a choice of cooking onboard or eating at restaurants along the way in Westport, Rideau Ferry, Chaffey’s Lock and other ports of call.
Although it only crosses the canal at a few spots (like Smiths Falls), the 240-mile (387-km) Rideau Trail meanders through picturesque farmland and forest between Ottawa and Kingston.
Most of the major towns and locks along the Rideau are also reachable by road. Depending on the number of stops, the total distance is likely somewhere between 150 and 200 miles (240-320 km).
Besides small hotels, quaint bed & breakfast inns and campgrounds along the route, Parks Canada offers the option of staying in historic lockmaster’s houses beside the Beverages, Davis and Newboro locks. Sleeping six to eight people, rates range between US$105 and US$344 per night depending on the season.
Whether by land or water, a journey along the Rideau Canal provides many opportunities for hiking … [+] Ontario’s north woods.
PHOTO BY JULIA CLERK YOGERST
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Publish date : 2024-09-10 03:30:00
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