Southern Charm: Introducing Bolivia and Peru Part 4

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A serving of Tacama Hanan Sauvignon Blanc. (PHOTO BY Viña Tacama)

Bolivia and Peru, two countries whose names have never been synonymous with winemaking until now, have again been featured in the 2024 Descorchados wine rankings after both were first featured in 2021 and 2022, respectively. South America’s prowess in viticulture has long been dominated by Argentina and Chile with Uruguay steadily making itself known, along with Brazil, in recent years. Bolivia’s inclusion in the Descorchados 2024, a premier guide to South American wines, has been a significant development for the country’s burgeoning wine industry, following its breakthrough feature in the 2021 edition. Prior to this, Bolivia’s wines had remained relatively under the radar; however, the unique conditions of Bolivia’s high-altitude vineyards, particularly in the Tarija region, have begun to draw attention.

Tarija, known for its altitudes ranging from 1,800 to over 2,000 metres, provides a distinct environment for winemaking with its high-elevation conditions resulting in wines having vibrant acidity and concentrated flavours. This characteristic caused the guide to acknowledge the potential of Bolivia’s wines, especially from native varieties like Negra Criolla and Moscatel de Alejandría, as well as internationally known grapes such as Tannat. This newfound recognition in the guide allowed Bolivian winemakers to showcase their innovation and dedication to refining their craft. Following the 2021 feature, Bolivia’s presence in Descorchados continued to grow, leading to features in subsequent editions (2022 and 2023) as the quality and new developments in their winemaking were highlighted. The guide noted the deepening exploration of Bolivia’s terroir, which further distinguished its wines from those of other South American nations.

Peru’s appearances in Descorchados represent a fascinating tapestry of the country’s emerging wine scene, characterised by its dynamic approach to viticulture and winemaking. Despite being overshadowed by the larger wine-producing nations of South America, Peru is carving out a niche with distinctive offerings that are making waves across the continent. Renowned for its meticulous evaluations and in-depth coverage of the wine world, Descorchados has increasingly turned its spotlight on Peru, showcasing a diverse array of wines that challenge conventional expectations. The Peruvian wine industry, with its historical roots dating back to the colonial era, has undergone a remarkable transformation in recent decades with recent efforts being directed towards quality and innovation. The emergence of Peruvian wines in the 2024 Descorchados ranking underscores this shift and highlights the country’s commitment to elevating its wine production standards.

One of the most notable aspects of Peru’s wine scene is its adaptation to the unique terroirs found across the country. The coastal regions of Ica and Arequipa, with their arid climates and mineral-rich soils, have proven to be fertile grounds for the development of exceptional wines. These areas, often defined by their extreme temperatures and scarce rainfall, present both challenges and opportunities for winemakers. Their ability, however, to harness these conditions and produce high-quality wines is a testament to their ingenuity and dedication.

In this fourth instalment of the “Southern Charm” series, Thursday food explores six labels, three each from Bolivia and Peru, that were named the best white wines for their respective countries.

Campos De Solana Tri Varietal Viognier, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc is an ambitious white wine comprising 85 per cent Viognier, 10 per cent Riesling and five per cent Sauvignon Blanc that scored 93 points in addition to being named Bolivia’s best white wine in the 2024 Descorchados ranking. Made by Campos De Solana from grapes grown in the Tarija region, the wine is golden in colour showing both great freshness and a deep maturity in its flavours. It exhibits aromas of tropical fruits, peach and vanilla on the nose while in the mouth, it is complex, with excellent juiciness and a long finish.

Jardín Oculto Vischoqueña, a 92-point wine that claimed the runner-up spot in the white wine category, is made from 100 per cent Vischoqueña, a native grape only found in Bolivia that is the offspring of the Negra Criolla and the Moscatel de Alejandría. At first glance, it is clean and transparent with lemon-coloured tones expressing fresh aromas of grapefruit peel with light notes of peach. On the palate, this wine produced in the Cinti Valley by Jardín Oculto, has notes of grapefruit and peach in addition to having excellent acidity and a salty finish.

Kohlberg Stelar Ugni Blanc is a 100 per cent varietal, 91-point vintage made from grapes grown in Taria, Bolivia, that were first planted in 1967. The Ugni Blanc is originally a French grape variety that is also known as Trebbiano in Italy, where it’s widely grown and used in various Italian wines. The wine, which is produced by Vinos Kohlberg and rounded out the top three best white wines of Bolivia, has notable aromatic stability exhibiting a high presence of tropical fruits such as dried pineapple and mango. On the palate, the wine has a balanced acidity, a full and refreshing body where green apple takes centre stage, great floral richness, subtle notes of vanilla and toast, all of which combine before ending in a clean, refreshing, crisp and zesty finish.

Bodega Murga Duermevela Albilla Italia is a 94-point wine by Bodega Murga that is made up of 50 per cent Albilla (a white variety from Spain, particularly associated with the region of Castilla-La Mancha) and 50 per cent Italia (a white variety also known as Muscat of Alexandria, with roots in the Mediterranean region) grapes from vineyards located in the Pisco region of Peru. Named as Peru’s best white wine in the 2024 Descorchados ranking, it is bright yellow and slightly golden in colour, denoting long maceration. On the nose, notes of white flowers, tea herbs, anise, prickly pear flower, pear, fresh apple and carambola are perceived. On the palate, it is dry, with subtle acidity, medium astringency and balanced.

Bodega Murga Dríade Albilla, which earned the run-up spot and scored 93 points, is a 100 per cent Albilla from the Pisco region. This wine has a warm and intense yellow colour with golden reflections that gives it an appearance that is bright and unfiltered. It expresses aromas of dried fruit, ripe plums, as well as some very delicate spices, in addition to almonds, sting pine, and some lime. In the mouth it is dry, balanced and mature, with medium astringency and delicate acidity. It is also fresh, with a finish that brings the mixture of mineral and wood without aggressiveness.

Tacama Hanan Sauvignon Blanc is a 92-point wine that rounded out the top 3 white wines from Peru in the 2024 Descorchados ranking. This 100 per cent varietal was made from grapes grown in the Ica region by Viña Tacama. The wine is bright yellow in colour with complex aromas that include floral notes of violets and delicate touches of vanilla and peach. On the palate it is lively and balanced, with a citrus and smooth finish.

As South America continues to grow in global prominence as a wine-producing continent, the new wine scenes in Bolivia and Peru offer a refreshing contrast to the well-established industries of Argentina and Chile as well as Brazil and Uruguay. Bolivia’s high-altitude vineyards and Peru’s evolving wine culture represent the diversity and potential of these lesser-known regions, with both countries poised to become important players in the future of South American wine. Salud !

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