South America’s landscape is otherworldly. The Patagonian Andes, Ecuador’s cloud forests, the Pantanal and Pampas are immense areas where 500 years of “development” have not wiped out flora or fauna. The Amazon basin, which spreads over more than a third of the landmass and eight of South America’s 12 countries, is a peerless biodiversity hotspot.
The human geography is equally enthralling. Guidebook generalisations and comparisons to European countries only go so far. The tapestry is complex and the art, music, cuisine and other cultural expressions are mestizo (mixed), like many people’s ethnic inheritance. The region’s Italian and Spanish-inflected cuisines, colonial-era churches and modern metropolises can feel familiar but fascinating for existing far from their origin.
A trip into rural areas permits contact with indigenous-dominant groups, which can be instructive when well managed. Pre-Columbian ancient sites and syncretic Christianity and local beliefs are very much on show. The lingua franca across all the nations except Brazil and the Guianas is Spanish, making travel straightforward. But don’t expect homogeneity – the delights of South America lie in the nuances, differences and imprecise borderlands of national character.
Performers in Brazil’s annual Carnival
Credit: Getty Images
Each country has its own USP. For this beginners’ guide, we’ve highlighted the big-hitting regions, cities and sites. Argentina, Brazil and Chile continue to be favourites with British travellers, beach-lovers and those who want a little luxury. Peru and Bolivia have long appealed to archaeology fans, walkers and backpackers. Paraguay, Uruguay and the Guianas are more offbeat but on the rise.
Now’s a good time to go. The most egregious impacts of the pandemic have receded and the great parks and trails – including the perennially popular Machu Picchu – are fully open. Recent turbulence in Ecuador has largely passed and the Government has green-lit the interior and the Galápagos Islands. Flights from the UK – which means London – aren’t back to the level they were in 2019, but you can get almost everywhere with a single stopover or flight change. The cost-of-living crisis has affected all countries, but South America remains better value than the UK and most of Europe – especially if you steer clear of the ultra-high-end hotels.
One important factor never changes. Our winter is South America’s summer. Escape to the world’s most welcoming continent when the weather turns.
Rio de Janeiro is a perfect first stop for visitors to the continent
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Brazil
Brazil is not only different from its neighbours because of its size and language – Portuguese rather than Spanish. It also has a very different topography – mainly low-lying, tropical and dominated by the Amazon basin. Its human geography is profoundly enriched by African history and connections. Brazil achieved independence not through a republican movement but thanks to a prince who liked the beach. In 1808 Rio de Janeiro became the imperial capital, with King John VI and his son, Dom Pedro, in residence. Today it’s arguably the global capital of beach culture and for first-time visitors, a few days in Ipanema or Copacabana make for a wonderful welcome.
The city’s Carnival is rightly world-famous, though Salvador’s is more of a people’s party. Other highlights include Brasilia’s modernist architecture, São Paulo’s art and gastronomy and the wildlife of the Pantanal wetlands, where South America’s “Big Five” can be seen. Another highlight, of course, is the Amazon. Best seen from a riverboat and the surreal dunes and lagoons of the Lençóis Maranhenses, it was recently declared a Unesco world heritage site. Brazil is immense, and you’d need three or four visits, at least, to say you had a sense of its scale and diversity. But a well-curated tour can be a fulfilling taster.
Leopards in the Pantanal wetlands
Credit: Shutterstock
Where to stay
The Rosewood São Paulo (doubles from £470, rosewoodhotels.com) is a luxurious hotel and local meeting place.
In Rio, you’re spoilt for choice: there’s the super-stylish Fasano (doubles from £543), legendary Copacabana Palace (doubles from £567) and Santa Teresa RJ MGallery (doubles from £350).
In the Pantanal and Amazon, the Uakari Lodge (3-night package from £642 per person, uakarilodge.com) sits on a tributary of the Solimões (Brazil’s Upper Amazon) near Tefé.
These two large countries at the southern tip of the continent deserve their own entries, but are very doable as a double act, whether you opt for a Patagonian odyssey or the sultrier climes of the Andean regions of the north.
Buenos Aires is romantic, frantic and schizophrenic (as befits one of the world centres of psychoanalysis), with one foot in Europe and the other in Latin America. Almost all international flights touch down here, and a few days to unwind and stroll around the streets – with stops at old cafés, bars and steakhouses – is obligatory.
Other standouts are the Iguazú Falls – shared with Brazil, but closer and louder on the Argentinian side – colonial Salta and the wine region around Cafayate; the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (a Unesco World Heritage Site and home to the expanding Perito Moreno Glacier), and the Pampas, with their serene estancias, where you can find your inner gaucho on horseback or in a hammock.
The majestic Iguazú Falls
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Chile has one of South America’s most visited national parks – Torres del Paine National Park – where the 10-day circuit around the base of the massif is one of Patagonia’s greatest hikes. At the other extreme is the Atacama Desert, where the clear skies and unpolluted atmosphere draw the world’s astronomers.
The wineries in the suburbs of Santiago are some of the oldest in the continent and it’s easy to combine a visit to the capital with a stay in Valparaíso, a more atmospheric, artsy city known for its associations with Pablo Neruda, Chile’s most celebrated poet. The Lake District is home to German settlers, Mapuche Indians and eco-conscious exiles from Santiago, while Tierra del Fuego is where cruises head off into the glacier-walled fjords.
In Buenos Aires, the recently opened Hotel Casa Lucia (doubles from £266, hotelcasalucia.com) is housed inside the former Palacio Mihanovich. Legado Mítico (doubles from £235) is a great base for exploring the local bars and restaurants.
The Singular Santiago (doubles from £204) is set in the Chilean capital’s hippest area; the same company owns one of Patagonia’s landmark hotels – Singular Patagonia (doubles from £233) – which occupies a former cold-storage warehouse on Last Hope Sound.
The Colombian coast has been growing in popularity for good reason
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Colombia and Ecuador
Beautiful, balmy, mountainous Colombia – the only South American country to boast both Caribbean and Pacific coasts – is now firmly on the mainstream bucket list. It’s one of the world’s best countries for birdwatchers, with 1,800 species, of which 76 are endemic. Natural reserves such as Cerro Montezuma and the Tayrona National Natural Park are great choices for effortless birding.
The most emblematic region is the “eje cafetero” or “coffee axis”, formed by the towns of Armenia, Manizales and Pereira, where tropical vegetation, coffee plantations and the Andes – which split into three separate chains here – conjure images from the pages of Gabriel García Márquez’s One Hundred Years of Solitude.
In the provincial capitals, choose from salsa classes in Cali, architecture tours in Medellin and colonial treasures in the small towns of Santa Cruz de Mompox, Barichara, Villa de Leyva, Salento, and Santa Fe de Antioquia. Colombia also has two tourism-friendly Caribbean islands: sophisticated San Andrés and English-speaking Providencia.
Spot wildlife in the Galapagos Islands
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Ecuador has experienced a lot of political strife since the pandemic. Things are calmer now and improving every day. Once the northern outpost of the Inca empire, it can’t match countries further south for archaeological show-stoppers, but it makes up for that with natural wonders – including the Avenue of the Volcanoes, a road through two rows of parallel, snow-capped peaks; an Amazon jungle region that is easy to access; the cloud forest reserve of Mindo for wildlife, orchids and other rare flora; and the Galápagos Islands – best explored by small ship – with their world-famous boobies, tortoises, sea turtles and marine iguanas.
Mashpi Lodge (doubles from £812) is a glass-walled architectural statement inside its forest reserve. Pikaia Lodge (3 nights from £2,322) is the first luxury property to open in the Galápagos.
Sofitel Santa Clara (doubles from £660) in Cartagena sprawls over a 17th-century monastery, with crypts, wells, confessionals and art galleries open to guests.
Peru’s bucket list attraction, Machu Picchu
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Peru and Bolivia
Lima was the de facto capital of Spanish South America and nearby Callao its key port. Today it’s a heady place to explore the long history of indigenous civilisations and colonial conquest. The Huaca Pucllana is an impressive ceremonial centre in the heart of residential Miraflores.
Away from the capital, Cuzco is the other must-stay city because, while it’s backpackers-ville, it has some of the most impressive monasteries, churches and pre-Columbian buildings in South America. Nearby is the Sacred Valley – easily traversed by train – and the superlative archaeological site of Machu Picchu.
Iquitos is the sultry base for a cruise around the headwaters of the Amazon and the Pacaya Samiria National Park. In the Cordillera Blanca, tough hikers can ascend to tropical glaciers and turquoise lakes. The mysterious, geometrical Nazca Lines, thought to have been etched into the stony desert as far back as 900 BC, make for a less arduous stopover.
The city of Cuzco offers historic architecture and charming streets
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Bolivia takes visitors’ breath away. La Paz is bustling, colourful and shabbily atmospheric – though the Zona Sur is now modern and relatively affluent. The colossal Illimani mountain is the city’s backdrop, and a trip into the Andes is worth the effort.
Highlights include colonial Potosí, with its silver mine in the Cerro Rico and the local mint, converted into one of South America’s best museums; the Star Wars landscapes of the Uyuni salt flats, best explored by four-wheel drive; the islands of Lake Titicaca; and the Unesco-listed archaeological site at Tiwanaku, home to an important precursor of the Inca civilisation.
The Palacio del Inka (doubles from £303) in Cuzco is where Francisco Pizarro’s brother, Gonzalo, once resided. The Palacio Nazarenas (doubles from £717) occupies a restored 17th-century palace and convent.
Hotel B (doubles from £264) is Lima’s most beautiful hotel, offering five-star service in an intimate, palatial setting.
In La Paz, Casa Grande (doubles from £119) is the most stylish option in Zona Sur.
Rain brings impressive reflections to the Uyuni salt flats
Credit: Getty Images
How to get there
There are no flights from UK airports outside London. Avianca flies from Heathrow to Bogotá and British Airways flies from Heathrow to Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo (some flights to the latter continue to Buenos Aires). British Airways also flies Heathrow to Santiago de Chile and Latam flies Heathrow to São Paulo, where it operates onward services to many cities.
Returns for all principal destinations start at around £800; add £200 if you plan to fly on to a provincial airport.
From any point outside London, it’s usually as fast to go via Europe as via Heathrow. Madrid’s Barajas airport is the European hub for South America while TAP Portugal is the best airline for cities in northern Brazil and along the north-east coast; Lisbon-Recife is under eight hours while a London-Recife flight via São Paulo would take around double that time. Air France will launch direct flights between Paris and Salvador in October 2024.
Virgin Atlantic is scheduled to start flying to São Paulo from Heathrow in summer 2025.
A boat on Bolivia’s Lake Titicaca
Credit: Alamy Stock Photo
How to get around
Distances are generally long in South America. Flying is the quickest and safest way to get around. There’s an excellent regional network that includes Latam, Avianca, Aerolineas Argentinas, Azul and Gol – and in recent years, low cost/no frills operators Sky, Flybondi and Jetsmart have increased competition. You can fly surprisingly long distances for under £100.
Hiring a car is recommended for big highway-themed holidays (Argentina’s Ruta 40 or the Costa Verde in Brazil). Rates vary across countries but budget around £50 per day for a small car; all the main rental firms are present in capitals and airports. Get a driver if you’re heading for the wilds.
Rail travel is limited following decades of closures but Peru has good long-distance lines through scenic areas.
The shoulder months of October to November and March to April are ideal for Argentina and Chile. Note, though, that the central Andes have a rainy season during the southern summer and Salta can be stormy in January and February.
Other countries are subtropical, so it’s never cold and the weather has more to do with altitude and topography than time of the year. The Brazilian Amazon has major rains from December to May; the period after this – the flooded season – is a good time to explore the upper Amazon. The Pantanal rainy season is October to March; the peak wildlife viewing season is June to September.
The Andean dry season is between May and October, but this also means high demand for Peru and Bolivia. A bit of drizzle might be better than a lot of people.
It never rains in the Atacama Desert, almost.
To hike the Sacred Valley, especially Machu Picchu, be sure to book early
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When to book
Book as far in advance as possible. Demand is generally highest from December to March, with Patagonia in high demand between October and March.
Chileans and Argentines flock to their lake districts and beaches over Christmas and January. Book as early as possible for the Galápagos Islands; many boats have just eight to 10 cabins.
For organised tours, big events such as Carnival or Machu Picchu’s “Classic” Inca Trail, try to book a year in advance.
Enjoy warm weather in December and January, popular times to visit Brazil’s coast
How much does it cost
With flights at £800-£1,200 (peaking at Christmas and during the northern summer), a tour will cost anything from £3,000 to £8,000-plus, depending on the level of luxury and quality of guides, food and services. In general, South America is cheaper than Britain or Europe.
The colourful architecture of Valparaiso in Brazil
Credit: Getty Images
Brazil’s beaches, forests and falls
Humboldt Travel (humboldttravel.co.uk) can arrange a bespoke 12-night private tour to Brazil from £5,970 per person, with private tours and transfers and all internal flights included, but not international flights. An example trip includes four nights at a jungle lodge in the Amazon, three nights in Salvador de Bahia, three nights in Rio de Janeiro, and a final three nights at Iguazú Falls.
Food and wine across the Andes
Journey Latin America (journeylatinamerica.com) has a 13-day food-focused luxury holiday to Chile and Argentina from £6,500 per person, including accommodation, in-destination air and road transfers and guided excursions – but not international flights. Explore north-western Argentina, Mendoza, Santiago’s Maipo Valley and Buenos Aires.
Watch tango dancers perform, or even join in with a lesson
Credit: Alamy Stock Photo
Colombian classics
A&K’s (abercrombiekent.co.uk) 10-night Classic Colombia tour is priced from £6,950 per person, including all flights, transfers, guides and accommodation on a B&B basis. Stops include Cartagena and the Rosarios Islands, a coffee plantation near Pereira, the Corora national park, Medellin and Bogotá.
Exodus Adventure Travels’ (exodus.co.uk) 14-day guided group tour Highlights of Ecuador; Andes to Amazon is priced from £2,549 per person, including B&B accommodation, all additional listed meals and all listed transfers and activities – but not flights. The trip includes visits to the centre of the Amazon, the Bellavista Cloud Forest, the largest Inca ruins in Ecuador and the Avenue of the Volcanoes.
Ecuador’s Avenue of the Volcanoes
Credit: Getty Images
Footsteps of the Incas
Select Latin America (selectlatinamerica.co.uk) has a 22-day tour of Chile, Peru and Bolivia from £5,524 per person including domestic flights, transport, accommodation, English-speaking guides and some meals, but not international flights. Highlights include the Atacama Desert, Lake Titicaca, Cusco and the Sacred Valley and, as a finale, Machu Picchu.
The weather can turn in an instant, so be prepared for rain in the Andean city of Cuzco
Credit: Getty Images
What to pack
Pack for rain as well as heat. Both the Andean regions and parts of the Amazon are shower-prone, whatever the season. A hat, sunglasses and good sunblock are essential, as are light clothes. Panama hats are made in Ecuador.
Colombia is famous for its birds, but even the Pampas and Patagonian coasts are ornithologically opulent. Pack binoculars.
A birdwatcher in the Amazon rainforest
Credit: Alamy Stock Photo
Visas
Generally, a passport with six months’ validity is all you need for a 90-day stay, with the visa issued on arrival. Some airports charge a departure tax. See “Entry Requirements” on the FCDO website.
South America has a small percentage of very rich people and millions of extremely poor people; historic city centres suddenly give way to dirt-poor residential barrios. While ancient ruins and national parks are generally safe, it’s best to tour cities with a group.
Opportunistic rather than violent crime is quite common; foreign tourists stand out with their expensive cameras, smartphones and sunglasses.
Adventure tourism is generally considered safe.
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