… and the best Zona Cafetera views
Filandia, being bang smack in the middle of Colombia’s coffee axis, is surrounded by some epic scenery. Think rolling lush green hills dotted with grazing horses, misty snow-capped mountain backdrops, and dusty dirt paths leading to centuries-old coffee haciendas. For the best views in town, head to La Colina Iluminada; a 19-metre (62-feet) tall wooden structure that gives you views across the three Zona Cafetera departments and, if weather permits, means you might even spot the majestic Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados in the distance.
You can actually get a decent coffee here
This may come as a surprise, but it’s actually quite hard to find a decent coffee in Colombia (really!). Because of the huge demand for Colombian coffee in Europe and the US, most of the quality stuff is exported, leaving only the damaged and low-quality coffee beans circulating around the country (the dreaded sugary tinto is a perfect example of this). Having said that, with a rapid growth in Colombian tourism and a rise in coffee culture amongst Colombian millennials, decent cafes are popping up. Serving up cups of caffeine perfection straight from the surrounding fincas in chic coffee shops, Filandia is a key player in this revolution. Our personal favourite is MOCAFE.
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There are beautiful cycling routes
Filandia is surrounded by miles of lush green coffee farms, many of which are dotted with dirt tracks perfect for biking. A great route to do, passing by stunning coffee fincas and awesome lookout points, is the mostly downhill Filandia – Quimbaya route to a bustling local town which sees even fewer visitors than Filandia. If you don’t fancy the gruelling cycle back up, the Willy Jeeps in Quimbaya (leaving every 10 mins or so to Salento) somehow manage to squeeze you and your bikes on (you might just have to pay a little extra). Popular hostels Colina de la Lluvia and Bidea offer cheap bike rental and will give you handy maps for this route.
The local priest cooks you lunch
About half an hour into the bike route mentioned above, you’ll come across a little gem called Finca Aprisco La Española: the home of the local priest and goat farmer. Upon request, the priest and his family prepare an Antioquian feast in their traditional outdoor kitchen, which includes clay-roasted chicken served with plantains, rice, salad and avocado and a hearty sancocho soup, which is then served in a pretty colonial courtyard surrounded by fragrant flowers and fluttering hummingbirds. While your meal is prepared, friendly Jairo will show you around the farm and even let you feed the baby goats! For dessert, make sure you try their delicious homemade goat’s cheese with a slice of their perfectly crunchy clay-oven-baked bread. Ask Bidea hostel to make the reservation for you a day in advance.
You can hike to a secret double waterfall
You’ll hear some rumblings about a doble cascada (double waterfall) whilst in Filandia. The pretty side-by-side waterfalls are located inside private land, however, the owners are really cool about letting visitors explore the grounds. It’s a gentle 30-40 minute hike from town through lush forest, where it’s likely that you’ll only have cows, hummingbirds and colourful butterflies as your hiking companions. If it’s a hot day, it’s an awesome place to spend the afternoon and, if you dare, go for a refreshing dip. Bidea hostel has a handy map of the route, just ask at the front desk.
There are tons of small, family-run coffee farms to visit
As you would expect from any coffee town in Colombia, Filandia is surrounded by coffee fincas. The special thing about visiting one here, however, is that they’re not too touristy. Most farms in the surrounding areas are relatively small and are family owned, meaning you get a more intimate, local insight into how a no-frills coffee finca is run; no big tour groups, no ‘trained bilingual guide’, just you and the coffee farmer showing you how it’s done (you may need to brush up on your Spanish skills though!). Don Eduardo and Finca El Mirador are the two most popular farms to visit, but there are several nearby – just ask around.
You can throw metal putts at gunpowder
Yes, really. The coffee region has a popular game called tejo: a game that consists of throwing a metal puck across the room at a triangle of gunpowder. The aim of the game is to make every triangle explode! In Filandia, the place to go is Cancha de Tejo Cafe Pueblo. To play, buy a beer at the bar, pick up a puck and join in with the locals. Be warned though: these guys, throwing the puck from more than 50m (164ft) away, are absolute pros.
It’s laid-back Colombian village life at its best
If you’re looking for a real coffee region experience, Filandia is just the ticket. While there’s a nice amount of hip restaurants, cafes and things to do nearby, life here is still very much as it was hundreds of years ago. Poncho-clad men park their horses outside hole-in-the-wall bars, coffee-stacked World War II Willy Jeeps chug along the narrow, cobbled street roads, and street vendors’ voices still echo through the brightly-painted streets at 6am in the morning. It’s Colombia’s coffee region most precious hidden gem.
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Source link : https://theculturetrip.com/south-america/colombia/articles/11-reasons-why-you-should-visit-filandia-at-least-once-in-your-lifetime
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Publish date : 2024-05-16 03:00:00
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