The jewel of Colombia’s Caribbean coast

Set on a headland beside the Caribbean Sea, Cartagena is Colombia’s most “magical” colonial city, said Stephanie Rafanelli in The Times, and one of the most beautiful in the Americas. 

Founded in 1533, it was the main port of the Spanish empire, a fabulously wealthy entrepôt for gold and slaves. Its old town is wonderfully well preserved – a warren of cobbled streets, domed churches and mansions “the colour of watermelon and papaya”, surrounded by seven miles of fortified coral stone walls. But though its architecture is Spanish, almost half of its population is of African descent, and its culture reflects both of these roots. 

Tourism in Colombia has flourished since the government struck a peace deal with the guerrilla group Farc eight years ago, and Cartagena is the country’s most popular destination. A Four Seasons hotel is due to open soon, but I stayed at Casa Pestagua, a boutique hotel in a 17th-century mansion, with a pool in a “palmed Moorish-style courtyard”. It was a good base from which to explore the city, including its restaurant scene. 

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In recent years, Colombia’s chefs have embraced the country’s diverse produce and culinary traditions as never before, and among the pioneers is Jaime Rodríguez, co-founder of Celele, in Cartagena. Located in the atmospheric old working-class neighbourhood of Getsemani, it currently stands at 16th in Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list. 

Cartagena has some good museums, of which the most distinctive is the Museo del Oro Zenú, where you can see the exquisite creations of the region’s pre-Colombian goldsmiths. When you’ve seen the sights, there is a good place to kick back nearby – the Rosario Islands, 45 minutes by speedboat from the city. Casa Pestagua has its own outpost here, Acasi Rustic Beach. Its six cabins sit beside a private beach, with an outdoor restaurant. I found the place enchanting – not least in the evenings, when there is a chance of spotting “ghostly flashes of bioluminescence” playing across the water.

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Publish date : 2024-09-28 20:05:00

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