The pyramids of Tikal are a must-see archaeological site
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Antigua and Tikal, Guatemala
The most populated country in Central America, Guatemala is also its most culturally enthralling. Indigenous communities continue to play a major role, evidenced in local food, fiestas, traditional garb and more than 20 languages. Skip the congested, polluted capital, Guatemala City, and make your first stop Antigua, the former capital (it was relocated for seismic reasons). Once the colonial HQ of the Capitanía General de Guatemala, it is a delightful town with lovely civic buildings dating from the 16th-18th centuries.
The colourful streets of Antigua Guatemala
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The most visited Mayan site outside Mexico is Tikal, in the Petén region in the north east. Set amid dense jungle, with the tops of the pyramids visible above the treetops, it’s extraordinarily beautiful. Monkeys, agoutis and ocellated turkeys roam the ruins, and there are ample lawns and limestone causeways to facilitate an easy walking tour. Nearby is Yaxhá, another important archaeological site, Lake Petén Itzá and the Belize border.
Some of Antigua Guatemala’s most beautiful old properties are now upmarket hotels such as El Convento (doubles from £229; elconventoantigua.com) and the resort-style Casa Santo Domingo (doubles from £140; casasantodomingo.com.gt), which has ziplines, pools and a spa.
The Great Blue Hole draws scuba and snorkelling tourists from around the world
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Belize
Cross into Belize to visit another Mayan site at Caracol, before continuing to Belize City, the former capital, which has a certain ramshackle charm, as well as a good history museum and Anglican cathedral.
Hop in a water-taxi to stay on one of the many cayes that lie along the edge of the Unesco-listed Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System. On Ambergris Caye, there’s posh nosh, cocktail bars, boutique accommodation and some of the best scuba and snorkel diving in the world. The Great Blue Hole, made famous by Jacques Cousteau, is at Lighthouse Reef, some 43 miles offshore.
Want to add a third country? From Guatemala, you can easily pop over the border to Copán in Honduras. It’s one of the largest and most impressive Mayan sites.
In Belize’s Mountain Pine Ridge Reserve, not far from the Guatemala border, is the luxurious Blancaneaux Lodge (two-night minimum stay, doubles from £700; thefamilycoppolaresorts.com), owned by Francis Ford Coppola – check out the propeller from Apocalypse Now used as a ceiling fan in the superb restaurant.
On Ambergris Caye, Mahogany Bay Resort & Beach Club – owned by the Hilton group – is one of the few bona fide upscale resorts (doubles from £126; hilton.com).
El Salvador’s Jiquilisco Bay has beautiful palm-lined beaches
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El Salvador and Nicaragua
El Salvador is known as the país de la media hora – the half-an-hour country – because everything is close. You can spend a morning with the wheeling vultures in the peaks and have a shrimp ceviche on the beach for lunch.
The historical town of Suchitoto, about an hour’s drive from San Salvador, makes for a tranquil base, popular with artists and musicians. It’s easy to arrange a driver and take off to explore the Ruta de las Flores, which winds through mountains and sugarcane and coffee plantations backed by volcanoes. Joya de Cerén is a pretty, somewhat off-radar Mayan site.
Jiquilisco Bay is fringed by Central America’s largest mangrove forest, a biome under threat globally despite being our best defence against tsunamis and a powerful carbon storage system. You can see egrets, blue herons, vultures and crocodiles, and enjoy clams and grilled fish on the beach.
Cross by scenic ferry to Nicaragua’s coast
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Another short drive takes you to Los Caracoles, which sits on a clean, empty strand lapped by the Pacific Ocean, perfect for bathing.
Cross the Gulf of Fonseca into Nicaragua; it’s a ferry ride that’s more scenic than many cruises. Central America’s largest nation is still waking up to its own potential. Recent turmoil has made the capital, Managua, into a living museum of the revolution. Quainter León and Granada are the most popular cities among travellers. The former is the cultural and intellectual capital and has colonial churches. The latter is its great rival, and while smaller, has a thriving gastronomic scene.
On the Pacific, San Juan del Sur and the “Emerald Coast” between Tola and El Astillero are undergoing gentrification. It’s a bit slick, but it is safe and the beaches, at the foot of forested slopes, are glorious.
In Suchitoto, check into Los Almendros de San Lorenzo, a former hacienda that’s been completely renovated, blending colonial features with modern furnishings and native artwork and antiques (doubles from £103; losalmendrosdesanlorenzo.com).
In Granada, Nicaragua, the Plaza Colón hotel is a historic hotel facing tree-lined Parque Central (doubles from £128; hotelplazacolon.com). Combine it with a stay at the exclusive, eco-friendly Jicaro Island Ecolodge (doubles from £240; jicarolodge.com) on Lake Nicaragua.
On the Emerald Coast are several mega-resorts. Rancho Santana (doubles from £212; ranchosantana.com) is big but unpretentious, with superb restaurants and bars.
Costa Rica’s diverse environments include tropical coast, rainforest and mountain landscapes
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Costa Rica’s national parks
Around 2.5 million travellers (including around 50,000 from the UK) go to Costa Rica every year, drawn by the promise of adrenalin-fuelled adventure tourism in all its forms, from easy canopy walks and zip-line rides to whitewater rafting and mountain biking around active volcanoes.
If it’s your first visit, head for the northwest, where the Arenal Volcano national park is great for biking and hiking, its cone-shaped, dormant stratovolcano visible for miles around, and its hot springs good for soothing tired limbs in the evening.
Short transfers will take you to the Monteverde cloud forests and to the Rincón de la Vieja national park. At the latter you can ride with the sabaneros (cowboys) and kick back on a ranch, while reliable surf swells on the Pacific coast have turned the Nicoya Peninsula into a cool beach destination.
Spot various species of monkeys in the jungles of Costa Rica
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Tortuguero national park, accessed via taxi-boat, is a popular stopover on the Pacific side: the breeding ground of the green sea turtle, it also protects manatees, river otters, many reptiles and amphibians, and 300 bird species.
Nevertheless, Manuel Antonio is likely the country’s most popular national park. With coastal forest and plenty of beaches, it’s a habitat for sloths, monkeys, iguanas, basilisk lizards, birds, butterflies, dolphins and migrating whales.
The Arenal area has lots of great hotels, many with pools and/or hot springs. The Springs Resort and Spa (doubles from £790; thespringscostarica.com) is all conical blue roofs, exquisite interiors, palm trees and hot springs. Plus, every room has a view of the volcano.
Florblanca’s lovely villas (£310 per night; florblanca.com), meanwhile, are located in the jungle, just off the potholed stretch of road that links the coastal towns of Santa Teresa and Hermosa on the Nicoya Peninsula.
Sophisticated and intimate, Tortuga Lodge & Gardens (doubles from £228; tortugalodge.com) in Tortuguero brings guests close to nature without subjecting them to its discomforts. Draws include 20 hectares of private jungle trails, a relaxing pool surrounded by hammocks, and an excellent Caribbean restaurant.
Hacienda Guachipelin (doubles from £94; guachipelin.com) in the Rincón de la Vieja national park has a ranch vibe with hotel comforts; you can enjoy rides around the verdant hillsides or lounge around in the volcanic mud baths.
Panama’s relaxing Taboga Island
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Along the Canal in Panama
Panama’s main attraction is, of course, its mighty canal. In addition to being a magnificent feat of engineering, it’s an important natural corridor, thanks to tight security during the years of US control, which turned the so-called Canal Zone into a conservation area.
Start out at Panama City – a thrusting, cosmopolitan capital where English is widely spoken. It’s the most American-looking capital city of Latin America (baseball is bigger than football), and the Casco Viejo – historic district – has the best-preserved Franco-Hispano-American colonial quarter outside New Orleans. The Biomuseo showcases exhibits that celebrate Panama’s amazing biodiversity and explain the Great American Interchange: the period when the isthmus linked up two different sets of species.
Explore cosmopolitan Panama City
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To the north and slightly east (Panama’s shape is best described as “twisty”), the canal passes through the Soberanía national parks as well as the wildlife-rich Gatun Lake. Do an early-morning walk in the park to see the birdlife, take a cruise back to the city and then explore the region all over again on a wonderful return trip on the 47.6-mile railway, built for the California Gold Rush.
Eighty miles west of the capital is the Valle de Anton, a jungle-clad valley – in fact, a long-extinct volcanic crater, where twitchers flock to see toucans, hummingbirds and tanagers as well as morpho butterflies and sloths.
Taboga Island – 12 miles south of the Pacific entrance to the canal – is a great place to relax, with sandy beaches and terraces from which to watch the container ships waiting for an “open sesame” from the canal authorities.
The American Trade Hotel (doubles from £256; americantradehotel.com) is a glamorous, upscale hotel in a landmark building in the heart of the Unesco-listed Casco Viejo – a world away from Panama City’s glass and steel Americana. It boasts an excellent restaurant, thriving jazz venue and cool coffee shop.
The Canopy Lodge in Valle del Anton (doubles from £312; canopytower.com) is a highly respected birdwatcher favourite located in a protected swath of rainforest; it’s functional but quite smart, too, and the guides are real experts.
On Taboga, Villa Caprichosa (doubles from £139; villacaprichosa.com) is a neo-classical boutique hotel owned by celebrated American designer Diane Burn; the rooms, opulence, private pool and cuisine are worthy of a Venetian villa.
Find accommodation ranging from cultural home stays to luxury hotels
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Cycling in Costa Rica
Exodus Adventure Travels has a 14-day guided Costa Rica Coast to Coast Ride, from £4,969 per person including flights, B&B accommodation, some meals, all transport and listed activities, and a tour leader throughout. The tour takes guests through rainforest, around volcanoes and along the stunning Pacific coastline, with highlights including crossing the 11,150ft (3,400m) Cerro de la Muerte pass into the Orosi Valley, and taking a break from the saddle to explore the wildlife-rich rivers and waterways of Tortuguero. The final day of the trip features a circular cycling trip through the dense forests surrounding Lake Arenal. Various departures throughout 2024 and 2025.
Mayan world of Belize and Guatemala
The Ultimate Travel Company offers a 14-night tour classic Guatemala and Belize tour from £5,800 per person, including all accommodation on B&B basis, transfers and listed activities. Based on two people travelling and not including international flights. The tour begins in Antigua, where as well as touring the colourful markets and cobbled street, there’s an opportunity to try mountain biking, go volcano climbing and visit a local coffee plantation. The itinerary then takes visitors to Lake Atitlan and its indigenous villages, followed by a trip to the Mayan ruins at Tikal. In Belize, the adventuring shifts to the broadleaf rainforest of Cayo – the home of jaguars, tapirs and many birds. The tour culminates on the beach, with a luxury hotel and indulgent spa.
Costa Rica’s towering Arenal Volcano
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Costa Rica and inland Nicaragua
Original Travel has the 15-night Adventure in Costa Rica & Nicaragua tour, from £4,130pp, based on two sharing and including B&B accommodation, flights, all overland travel and activities throughout. The tour takes in a leisurely walk around Granada, an exploration of the Mombacho Volcano Nature Reserve and a coffee plantation, before venturing to the protected reserve of Morgan’s Rock, deep in the Nicaraguan jungle. The Costa Rica leg includes a hike to the waterfalls at El Silencio, a cultural tour of Los Bajos del Toro Amarillo and a mammal and bird-spotting visit to In Manuel Antonio National Park.
Journey Latin America has a nine-night highlights holiday in Panama from £2,500 per person, including good-quality hotels on a B&B basis, domestic flights, transfers and excursions, including a transit of the Panama Canal (international flights extra). The tour iintroduces visitors to the extraordinary history of Panama via its key sites including the Panama Canal, Panama City (Panama Viejo) and Casco Viejo. After the capital, guests head on to Boquete, a small provincial town set in a valley within the craggy, verdant Chiriquí Highlands, for a tour of a coffee farm and other activities, including cycling and water rafting. They can also hike or be driven up the slopes of Panama’s only (extinct) volcano, Barú, or luxuriate in the nearby hot springs. Lake Gatún and the dreamy Bocas del Toro archipelago are also featured.
El Salvador’s Jiquilisco Bay
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Experience El Salvador
Explore (explore.co.uk) has the 10-night Highlights of El Salvador tour from £1,759 per person, including all accommodation, breakfast and some other meals, local transport, and the services of an Explore tour leader throughout (international flights extra). Visitors travel to Jiquilisco Bay to take part in a turtle-monitoring project with a local biologist, hike up Santa Ana Volcano, El Salvador’s highest volcano to witness the outstanding views of the surrounding valley, and spend time in Suchitoto, where they learn to make traditional pupusas.
Charming tiled rooftops in Granada, Nicaragua
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How to get there
British Airways flies from Gatwick to San José, Costa Rica, three times a week, but only in winter. Returns start at £700. For any other destination, you have to fly via another European city (most commonly Madrid). Iberia flies from Barajas to Panama and El Salvador, which are regional hubs, as well as San José.
Belize is best accessed via a US airport (Houston or Miami); Tropic Air links Belize City to Cancún; and there are also buses from Cancun to Belize City.
Copa, Panama’s flag carrier, flies to all the main regional airports. No other Central American country has a comparable airline. Avianca El Salvador – formerly TACA – links San Salvador, San José and Managua.
Car hire is popular in Costa Rica; get a 4WD vehicle if you aim to go off-road or use hill routes. A driver is also highly recommended. Long-distance buses are cheap and safe in Central America.
Travelling by bus is a popular method to explore the region
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When to book
Demand for Central America is steady, but Costa Rica and Belize’s popular beaches can get busy during US and European public and school holidays, especially in the honeypot and “spring break” areas. Fourth of July, Memorial Day (end of May) and Labor Day (beginning of September) are best avoided. February to mid-April is the peak season for cruise ships. If you want to join an organised group tour, try to book a year in advance, as popular introductory tours can fill up.
Central America is in the tropics, meaning it’s either balmy or hot, with a rainy season from June to October, coinciding with the hurricane season.
September and October bring heavy rain to some parts of Costa Rica, while the dry season is generally January, February and March, or November to April in Nicaragua, Panama and Honduras.
Fresh mangoes and other fresh produce at a fruit stall in Granada
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How much does it cost
Flights from UK airports on Opodo and Skyscanner start at around £600 return. For example, London Gatwick to Panama City in September, with Air Europa – routing through Madrid – starts from £596 (booked with trip.com), with 10kg of carry-on baggage.
Hotels are priced in dollars, but are still competitive outside the ultra-luxury category: a double room in a smart small hotel can be secured for less than £100 per night, B&B.
Food and drink prices in Central America are lower than in the UK and in Europe. You can dine out for around £20 per person, though wine is imported, and therefore expensive.
Manuel Antonio national park boasts pristine beaches
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Visas
Under the Central America Border Control Agreement (also known as CA-4), you can travel between El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras and Nicaragua for up to 90 days without a visa. The 90-day period starts when you enter any of these countries and does not restart when you cross borders.
British nationals do not need a visa to enter Costa Rica. You may stay as a visitor for up to 180 days under a tourist visa waiver, although the exact period is at the discretion of the immigration officer on arrival. You do not need a visa to enter Belize. On arrival, you will be allowed to stay in Belize for 30 days.
If you want to extend your stay, it will cost 200 Belize dollars (£78.50) for each additional 30 days. To enter Belize, your passport must have an “expiry date” more than three months after the date you arrive. Some airlines may refuse entry if the expiry date is not more than six months after the date you arrive.
You can visit Panama for up to three months without a visa if you arrive by land or air. There are different visa requirements for sea arrivals. You cannot normally extend your stay, unless you apply to change your immigration status (for example, for business purposes or marriage) within the three months.
Find souvenirs, such as classic Panama hats and Mayan dolls, to bring home
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Security and safety
Central America is socially diverse. Slum regions abut high-rise condominiums. Historic city centres suddenly give way to dirt-poor residential barrios. While Mayan ruins and national parks are pretty safe, it’s best to tour cities as part of a group. Opportunistic rather than violent crime is the most likely issue; white foreign tourists stand out a mile in this region, as do their expensive cameras, smartphones and sunglasses.
Adventure tourism is generally safe, but volcano-boarding and even mountain biking down steep slopes are not risk-free. Consider your physical ability and the locality before agreeing to do anything. Ziplines and canopy walkways should be new and thoroughly checked.
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Publish date : 2024-07-30 22:00:00
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