Cayo Grande
Soon, Cayo Grande comes into view, the largest of the two main islands (plus 13 tiny coral islets). Lush greenery covers a large hill edged by a golden beach. As our boat nears, several cayucos (hand-carved wooden boats) head our way, one with a makeshift sail to harness the sea breeze. Smiling locals offer goods for sale – hand-rolled cigars, carefully wrapped, fresh coconut bread – and an invitation to visit their village. The Cayos archipelago doesn’t have any cars, roads, or bikes and is home to 100 inhabitants, most Garifuna (descendants of Carib Indians and Africans) who live simply without running water or electricity.
We land on the beach and hike through a jungle that’s home to the world’s only pink boa constrictors. Although we don’t spot the rare creatures, from the summit lighthouse we can clearly see Cayo Menor across the bay, where a research center, supported by non-profits including the renowned Smithsonian Institute and World Wildlife Fund, offers a base for visiting scientists.
We wander over to Cayo Chachahuate for a bite and a chat with the islanders. This sand-spit village of palm-thatched roof huts and hammocks offers some of the only overnight accommodations on Cayos. We sip Salva Vida beers as our hand-line-caught snappers and plantains are fried to order.
Cayucos on Cayo Chachahuate. Image credit: noraes / Flickr Creative Commons
Swimming with a whale shark
After a dive off Cayos Grande – where we spot sea turtles, lobsters, eagle rays, soft corals, and century-old purple barrel sponge – we head back to Roatan. As we’re dozing in the salt spray and sun, the boat slows. The captain motions to the crew – a straight hand to his forehead, then arms as wide as his smile. They rush for confirmation and hustle us into our fins and masks. We’ve happened upon the world’s largest fish, the whale shark, tipping the scales at 41,000lbs (6,350kg), and up to 60ft (19m) long.
As the captain positions us in the shark’s path, we slip into the water, equally thrilled that we have encountered the rare, gentle giant and that, as a filter-feeding shark, we are entirely off its menu. The slow-moving creature glides along next to us. We keep a safe, 9ft (3m) distance and stay calm to avoid spooking it into a dive, its steady gaze and striking spots and stripes seared into our memory. The sheer enormity of the creature, after a day already filled with otherworldly adventures, leaves us in awe as we quietly reboard the boat. The captain offers to drop in lines to fish on the final stretch home, but we decline. The sea has already given us more than we could ever want.
Swimming with a whale shark. Image credit: Getty Images / Rodrigo Friscione
Trip Notes
Day trips
Note, sea conditions must be ideal/near flat for most boats to comfortably make the trip.
A variety of operators in Roatan offer sailing and powerboat tours, with activities including scuba diving, snorkeling, fishing, and visits to Chachahuate village. Trips average 8.5 hours and typically include lunch, drinks, and snacks. Prices range from US $135-180.
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Publish date : 2019-12-09 03:00:00
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