The flamboyant Catalan centre is also a haven of tranquillity, as a gentler side emerges in a city famous for its vibrant Gaudi architecture and thumping nightlife.
Freddie Mercury’s 1987 collaboration track Barcelona with Catalan operatic soprano Montserrat Caballé played to their larger-than-life grandiosity, a fitting tribute to a Spanish city known for its equally big personality; but dig a little deeper and you’ll discover Barcelona is much more than its ability to peacock confidently.
It’s a city that welcomes moments of tranquillo (quiet) and is reinforced by its residents every time they smile at you on the street before indulging in that serious pastime of a siesta.
Barcelona as a destination is also timely this year given it is playing host to the 37th Louis Vuitton America’s Cup, and if a trip to the largest city of the autonomous community of Catalonia is on the cards over the next few months, you’re in a good position.
While the winds of seasonal change might be dubious for the sailors navigating the Mediterranean waters during the world’s oldest sporting competition, autumn is the perfect time to visit. From September through to November, the weather is milder and there are fewer crowds to contest with, making the city easier to navigate.
Towards the tail-end of August, I spent a few days there as a solo traveller looking for some respite from the crowds lining up at Park Güell, the glossy bodies tanning on Barceloneta Beach and the liveliness of La Rambla and Passeig de Gràcia. By all means, you must visit all of the aforementioned – including the bonkers majesty of Antoni Gaudi’ Sagrada Familia (and if you can separate the art from the artist, the Picasso Museum is worth a visit) – but it was the moments in between the excitement that I found the most revealing.
As one of the most pedestrian-friendly cities in the world, Barcelona is perfect for solo travellers. Along with walking and biking everywhere (particularly great on Sundays when most places are closed), the below recommendations are tried and tested for anyone looking to enjoy the city at their own glacial pace.
P.S. Get a lanyard for your phone. Yes, it’s dorky, but this is especially useful when you’re roaming the packed crowds of the Gotic, Born and Raval neighbourhoods where pickpocketing is rife.
1. Buy a trinket at Mercants del Encants
For the best op-shopping, vintage jewellery and estate treasures.
The Encants Market dates back to around 1300 and is a mecca for second-hand shoppers, considered the largest and best-known flea market in Barcelona. From clothing items to homewares, it might appear like an overwhelming spot for a solo introvert traveller, but it’s one of those markets where the vendors won’t harass or annoy you. Peruse at your own pace, and take in the incredible reflective ceiling designed in 2013 by b720 architects. Don’t miss the second level – it’s here I managed to find the perfect leather belt. Antique auctions take place on Monday, Wednesday and Thursday from 7am-9am; then again at 12pm for unsold items with further reductions. Carrer de los Castillejos, 158, L’Eixample, 08013 Barcelona. Encantsbarcelona.com
2. Take in the views of Barcelona with cava and ice cream at Terraza Martínez
If time is short and you need some quality paella and people-watching, this is the spot.
Away from the grind of beachfront establishments, this decade-old hilltop favourite serves fresh Spanish seafood dishes with excellent views of the port and city below. Located at the top of Montjuïc Hill, you can take the cable car up there and enjoy the spectacular views. There’s a vast selection of tapas, seafood and grills – my favourite dish was the Formentera-style lobster served up with sauteed peppers, potatoes, and fried eggs. Its location is well spaced out too; not too busy, and if you need to take a moment, the adjacent Montjuïc Cacti Park is a great sport for walking off a meal and exploring countless species of cacti in all shapes and sizes. Also nearby is the ambient Parc del Mirador del Poble Sec, one of the greenest parks in Montjuïc and the perfect place to sit under a tree and read a book or listen to music. Carrer de Bailèn, 158, L’Eixample, 08037 Barcelona. Martinezbarcelona.com
3. Take a detour along La Rambla into Casa Beethoven
Escape Barcelona’s busiest strip and find solace inside this music haven.
I stumbled across Casa Beethoven while making the obligatory visit to La Rambla and the adjacent Mercat de la Boqueria, and found a specialty store that’s perfect for idling an afternoon away in. A perfect spot for musicians and music lovers, you’ll find thousands of music scores and sheet music along with interesting knick-knacks. If you’re after a unique souvenir for loved ones, bypass the usual tourist traps for something unique. La Rambla, 97, Ciutat Vella, 08002 Barcelona. Casabeethoven.com.
4. Take the bus or train to Costa Brava
There’s nothing quite like taking a scenic bus ride out of the city.
For approximately two hours, you can book a day trip to the stunning northern coastal town of Costa Brava (”wild coast”), known for its postcard-perfect cobbled towns, calm mountains and beautiful beaches. The historic villages showcase a rich insight into the history of Catalonia. While you can choose to take a planned private tour or even the train, the bus is perfectly fine for someone looking to zone out on tour. The train is also a great idea, and cheaper (€7-€11 for a single journey) but I choose to pre-book my bus online with the Moventis Sarfa bus company from Estació Nord.
Once in Costa Brava, you’ll be pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to explore; from the Salvador Dali Museum to the majestic Girona Cathedral, it’s the sort of easy day trip that’s perfect for roaming around in your own sweet time.
5. Explore the Museu Nacional D’art de Catalunya
They have giant sofas when it all gets far too overwhelming.
Because it is overwhelming. This impressive museum is home to the biggest Romanesque art collection in the world. The Palau Nacional building has a range of artwork outside of the medieval Romanesque wall paintings though you’ll also discover an impressive collection of Gothic Art, renaissance and Baroque paintings. The work of one of Barcelona’s finest painters, Lluís Masriera i Rosés, is a sight for sore eyes as is the collection from some of the old masters such as Fra Angelico, Titian, and celebrated Catalan architect and designer Gaudí. The building itself is a work of art, created for the 1929 World’s Fair. Palau Nacional, Parc de Montjuïc, s/n, Sants-Montjuïc, 08038 Barcelona. Museunacional.cat/en
6. Have a glass of vermouth at Café del Centro
This iconic restaurant opened in 1873 as a casino, and is now one of the oldest active modernist cafes in Barcelona.
Frequented by celebrities and politicians to this day, not much has changed with a renovation in 2022 that kept much of its original features intact – a huge wall mirror is from the 1930s and the original cash register provides the perfect countertop prop. The perfect Sunday tradition, most locals will gather with friends and family at noon for fem un vermut, where loved ones gather at their local watering holes to debrief on the week and have a drink beloved by their grandparents. Supported of course by your pick of tapas, if you’re short on time, this is one authentic hot spot not to be missed. My favourite pick from the menu was the cod bombas – devilled eggs with red tuna and mayo plus a garnish of ginger bottarga. Deliciós. Carrer de Girona, 69, L’Eixample, 08009 Barcelona. Cafedelcentre.com.
7. Shop emerging designers at Roüa & Friends
Yes, there’s the biggest Zara on the planet and endless Mango stores on Passeig de Gràcia, but for a stress-less shop, this place was a highlight.
Locally made and emerging designers are a great way to test the barometer of any city, and Barcelona’s local fashion brands have a lot to offer. Located in the cobblestone side streets of the bohemian Ribera neighbourhood, this is an introvert’s safe haven for shopping. Dinky stores selling local fashion and homewares offer a boutique experience that’s unmatched from the rest of the city’s more obvious destinations. There are deadstock and upcycled accessories from Merrfer and Gen-Z-friendly swimwear by Who Is Lupe? Along with fantastical candlestick holders from Belgian ceramic artist and designer Naomi Gilon, whose designs have featured on Julia Fox and FKA twigs. Carrer del Brosolí, 1, Ciutat Vella, 08003 Barcelona. Roüa & Friends.
8. Order a glass of tempranillo and watch a film at Cinema Maldà
This art-house cinema has retained the charm of its original character.
On the only rainy day during my trip (a rare occurrence in Barcelona), I made the trip to this historic former theatre near the Basilica of Santa Maria del Pi to watch something random. You can purchase a ticket for the day and watch as many films as you please; €5.50 on Mondays and €7.50 Tuesday-Friday; €9 on the weekend. Carrer del Pi, 5, Ciutat Vella, 08002 Barcelona. Cinema Maldà
9. Visit Moco Museum to see works from Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat and David LaChapelle
A contemporary art gallery that’s anything but dull.
No need to pre-book a ticket, this small but carefully curated gallery is a one-stop shop for contemporary art enthusiasts. If bypassing the busy Picasso Museum next door is on the cards, you’ll find some refuge here. As one of Barcelona’s newest additions opening in 2021, it’s in addition to Amsterdam’s Moco and features a range of other works both famous and emerging. Paintings, sculptures (don’t miss Salvadore Dali’s impressive ‘Woman Aflame’ bronze sculpture) and digital art are combined into the perfect gallery experience that isn’t too long and has enough interest to work for anyone who might only be slightly interested in spending their days wandering around art galleries. One of my favourite highlights was witnessing David LaChapelle’s The Last Supper from his Jesus is My Homeboy series. Carrer de Montcada, 25, Ciutat Vella, 08003 Barcelona. Mocomuseum.com
10. Stand at the bar at Bar La Plata and snack on Pan con Tomate or Pescadito
If there’s one spot to enjoy tapas for one, this tiny bar is not too awkward.
Everyone from Bono of U2 and Kevin Parker from Tame Impala swear by this authentic Spanish tapas bar, and it was highly recommended by the arbiter of good taste Laila Gohar – so naturally I had to see what all the fuss was about. The first thing to notice is the menu on the board is all they serve; specifically the same four tapas (fried fish, anchovy and sausage sandwiches, and tomato salad with onion and olives) as when it was founded in 1945 with house wine straight from the barrel. If you’re after a quick bite in between excursions, this place is a must-visit. Be sure to have your basic Spanish or Catalan ready to roll – the staff here are efficient. Carrer de la Mercè, 28, Ciutat Vella, 08002 Barcelona. Bar La Plata
Dan Ahwa is Viva’s fashion and creative director and a senior premium lifestyle journalist for the New Zealand Herald, specialising in the intersections of style, luxury, art and culture. He is also an award-winning stylist with more than 17 years of experience and is a co-author and co-curator of the book and exhibition Moana Currents: Dressing Aotearoa Now.
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