Paradise is never easy to get to. If it were, everyone would be there, and it would no longer be paradise. Reaching Little Corn Island in Nicaragua is a testament to this. It takes three planes and a boat from almost anywhere in the States to get there.
The final plane ride—a 90-minute hop from Managua to Big Corn Island—was described in one online review as “a white-knuckle ride in a rattling tin can.” Buckling into the seat, which was only slightly more comfortable than a plastic school chair, I put on my headphones and tried to ignore the intense shaking of the plane as we took off.
The shift from turbulent skies to serene waters was palpable. As we left the dock, the ride from Big Corn Island felt like a departure from reality. Seated among a handful of fellow travelers, I could feel a collective sense of anticipation for what we were about to see. Conversations faded, replaced by the rhythmic hum of the boat’s engine and the hypnotic lull of the waves. As Little Corn Island came into view, its lush greenery and pristine beaches seemed almost surreal. Finally, after 12 hours of travel, I stepped into a foot of clear blue waters where a staff member from Yemaya Reefs Resort greeted me with a cool hand towel and a refreshing non-alcoholic drink, like a scene right out of White Lotus.
“Welcome to Little Corn Island,” he said with a smile. “Let your vacation begin.”
There are many types of vacations. Some vacations are active with days spent exploring ancient cities, visiting every museum, and snapping selfies in front of famous landmarks. Others are adventurous where you spend hours, sometimes days to get to a location just to hike it, bike it or jump off of it. And then there are pure relaxation vacations, where light activities are optional, and unwinding is the primary goal.
Little Corn Island falls into the last category. Home to about 800 residents, this 1.5-square-mile gem sits 50 miles off Nicaragua’s eastern coast. There are no cars, no ATMs, no flashy hotels, and no tourist traps. Instead, you’ll find the tranquility of lush jungles and pristine beaches reminiscent of Costa Rica but at a fraction of the cost.
The island’s winding dirt paths lead through dense jungles and past deserted coves to hidden beaches that feel like your own private paradise. The island is small enough that you can walk its entire circumference in a day. Along the way, you might stumble upon local gems like the one-stand farmers market or the panadería selling delicious coconut bread. Otto Beach, on the island’s northwest tip, is a popular beach with its crystal-clear waters perfect for snorkeling and calm enough for paddleboarding.
The island’s sole luxury accommodation is Yemaya Reefs Resort. 16 oceanfront casitas blend seamlessly with the natural surroundings. The resort offers a range of activities, including snorkeling, scuba diving, and sunset cruises. Yoga classes are available on-site as well as a spa with treatments to help you unwind. Or you can do what I did for most of my stay: sit on your front porch, sip coffee, and gaze out at the vast blue ocean. When I needed a change of scenery, I slipped into the plunge pool on my terrace and continued my staring contest with the waves.
At night you can head out to “town” and start your evening with dinner at The Turned Turtle, known for its fresh seafood and Caribbean flavors. Afterward, head to Tranquilo Cafe, an open-air bar where the sounds of reggae music mixes with the hum of crashing waves. The walls feature vibrant murals by traveling artists, and a chalkboard menu lists fresh seafood and local produce specials. On trivia nights, groups huddle under the soft glow of string lights, debating answers and enjoying a range of tropical cocktails—piña coladas with a twist of fresh island pineapple, mojitos muddled with handpicked mint, and the house special, a rum punch that packs a flavorful wallop.
While venturing out was fun, I spent most of my evenings eating at Yemaya’s seafood restaurant. Open to hotel guests as well as visitors, the rotating menu merges local flavors with fresh ingredients. Think plates of fresh lobsters accompanied by a side of just-picked greens that still carry the scent of the garden, ceviche so fresh it feels like the ocean is dancing on your tongue, and creamy coconut-infused curries providing the comfort food you didn’t know you were missing on your tropical vacation. Dishes throughout the menu reflect the rich culinary heritage of the local Afro-Nicaraguan population.
Yemaya Reefs continues to celebrate the island’s local heritage with weekly performances by Garifuna dancers and musicians during a bonfire beach dinner. The Garifuna people, descendants of West African, Central African, Island Carib, and Arawak peoples, have a cultural legacy that is deeply intertwined with rhythmic music and dance. The dancers pound their feet into the sand in sync with the hypnotic beat of drums, maracas, and melodious singing.
After a week of savoring the freshest seafood, basking in the endless ocean views, and soaking up the island’s rich culture, I felt transformed. The return journey—three flights and a boat ride—no longer seemed daunting. Instead, with a renewed sense of peace and relaxation, it felt like a gentle transition back to reality, a reminder of the paradise I’d reluctantly left behind.
Jennifer Simonson is a travel writer by trade and a lover of the world’s food, cultures, drinks and outdoor spaces by nature. Follow her on Instagram @storiestoldwell.
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Publish date : 2024-07-29 06:54:00
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