Bodega Bouza has 7.5ha of vines near Pan de Azúcar hill. Credit: www.bodegabouza.com
Canelones wine route
From culture to wine, the journey is easy, vineyards appearing before you reach the city limits – nearby Canelones became Uruguay’s prime vine-growing territory in the 20th century precisely because of its proximity to the thirsty domestic market. The mild Atlantic climate is also conducive to quality grape production, with rich clay soils spread across the undulating hillsides which channel refreshing coastal breezes – essential in this more humid climate.
Although Canelones hosts two-thirds of Uruguay’s wine production, 90% of the wineries are family-owned and it is often the family who welcome you in. Most are boutique producers, and each family puts its own unique stamp on its wines – as a result, exploring Canelones provides a wealth of diversity in wine styles and varieties.
‘A big difference in Uruguay [compared to Chile and Argentina] is that we do experience significant vintage variation here, which keeps us on our toes!’ explains Eduardo Boido, winemaker at Bouza, which sits at the gateway of Canelones. ‘Some years are better for white varieties and others for red, but Tannat emerged as Uruguay’s champion because we get great colour, acidity and concentration year on year.’
Tannat is Uruguay’s most widely planted grape variety, but there are many others that show promise, including Albarino. The Bouza family was the first to plant this Galician white grape, which thrives in Uruguay’s similar Atlantic conditions, as an ode to its Galician ancestors. This Spanish flair also makes its way onto the menu at Bouza’s excellent restaurant, which vies for attention with its extensive vintage car collection.
Another top spot for lunch is Artesana, some 30 minutes’ drive deeper into Canelones. This boutique winery was the first to plant Zinfandel, inspired by the California-based owners, and its outdoor restaurant among the vines is an excellent place to sample Uruguay’s only Zinfandel paired with a wood-fire menu.
The Pizzorno family also offers an intimate lunch and tasting, where you can explore its 80-year winemaking heritage and allow your mind – and tannic preconceptions – to be blown by tasting Uruguay’s first carbonic-maceration Tannat.
Another interesting exploration of Tannat is tasting the Familia Deicas terroir range at Juanicó, one of Uruguay’s leading producers with the oldest cellar in the country, constructed in 1830. Other notable historic wine families to visit include Carrau, Antigua Bodega Stagnari, Varela Zarranz and Los Nadies, ranging from major players to boutique.
There’s no lack of cellars to discover tucked into the folds of Canelones and Montevideo, and the wine families of this region will encourage you to continue your discovery of Uruguayan wine by visiting the nearby wine routes of Atlántida, Colonia and Maldonado too. Start planning your next trip to Uruguay now – you’ve just been made privy to South America’s best-kept wine secret.
Fact file: Uruguay
Area planted 6,343ha (26% Tannat)
Wineries 176
Exports to 51 countries
Accommodation, restaurant & bar suggestions
Accommodation
Casa Sarandi
For a home away from home, Casa Sarandi B&B offers plenty of character, comfort and all the insider information you could want. A cultural immersion in Montevideo’s Old City.
Buenos Aires 558, Piso 3, Ciudad Vieja, Montevideo 11200
Sofitel Montevideo
This 1921 art deco hotel is dubbed ‘palace in the sand’ for its prime beachside location in upmarket Carrasco. The epitome of opulent luxury, with handsome suites, a great restaurant, well-stocked cellar and a ritzy casino.
Rbla Republica de Mexico 6451, 11500 Montevideo
Restaurants & bars
Alquimista
Tucked away in a peaceful corner of Carrasco, this B&B-turned-restaurant has tables set in different rooms of the house and garden, making you feel more like a guest than a diner. The innovative and colourful Uruguayan dishes are top restaurant quality.
Avenida Bolivia 1323, CP: 11400, Carrasco, Montevideo
Mercado del Puerto
Eating at Montevideo’s main market is more about the all-round experience than the quality. A carnivore’s delight, your eyes will water at the sight of so much asado (slow-cooked barbecue) – and that’s before the smoke hits.
Rambla 25 de Agosto de 1825, Montevideo
Primuseum
If you want a side of tango with your steak, Primuseum is the place for you. This intimate restaurant set in an antiques museum in the Old City serves a Uruguayan tasting menu while local musicians deliver a captivating show.
Pérez Castellano 1389, Ciudad Vieja, Montevideo
Open: Wednesday-Sunday from 8.30pm
Lo de Porro
Lo de Porro in Las Piedras, a typical bar of yesteryear where wine is served by the jug and pasta is freshly rolled each day.
Batlle y Ordoñez esq. Garibaldi, Las Piedras
Open: Tuesday 11am-4pm & 8pm-12am, Wednesday-Saturday 8pm-12am, Sunday-Monday closed
Barolo
The impressive cellar of Barolo stocks some 160 labels which can be ordered by the glass or flight, or uncorked at Fellini restaurant next door.
Arocena 2098, 11500 Montevideo
Barolo: Wednesday-Saturday 8pm-12am
Fellini: Monday-Friday 8pm-12.30am, Saturday 12pm-4pm & 8pm-12am, Sunday 12pm-4pm
Madirán & Mercado Ferrando
This urban market has several eateries, bars and boutiques ranging from gastronomy book shops to artisanal tap houses. Wine lovers should visit Madirán wine bar for its eclectic selection.
Chaná 2120 esq. JoaquÃn de Salterain (Barrio Cordón, Montevideo)
Open: Monday-Saturday 8am-1am, Sundays 9am-4pm
Montevideo Wine Experience
Under the expert eye (and fluent English conversation) of Nicolás and Liber, a couple of hours here will give you a whirlwind introduction to Uruguayan wine. Stay late for the live music sessions.
Piedras 300 esquina Colón, Montevideo
Monday, Wednesday-Sunday 1pm-11pm, Tuesday closed
Getting there
Montevideo airport has daily flights from Madrid, Miami and Buenos Aires, or you can take a two-hour ferry from Buenos Aires.
More wine travel guides here
Source link : https://www.decanter.com/wine-travel/south-america/uruguay-travel-montevideo-canelones-uruguay-423428/
Author :
Publish date : 2019-09-08 03:00:00
Copyright for syndicated content belongs to the linked Source.
