Go wild and cruise Alaska – from glaciers and gold mines to grizzly bears and gourmet dining at sea

Go wild and cruise Alaska - from glaciers and gold mines to grizzly bears and gourmet dining at sea

HAVING grown up on an island, a cruise holiday didn’t really appeal — perhaps because I have spent countless hours plying the waters on CalMac ferries.

But in May, I took the plunge and embarked upon an epic seven-night Holland America Line cruise in Alaska – a world away from the Firth of Clyde.

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Our trip started in stunning SeattleCredit: Alamy

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Palihotel in downtown Seattle is a delight

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A king studio at Palihotel made for a relaxing stay

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Holland America Line’s MS EurodamCredit: Supplied

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Paul and Claudia stopped off at Alaska’s charming capital, Juneau

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A canoe trip to Mendenhall Glacier was a memorable experienceCredit: Getty

The day before we joined our ship, my fiancée Claudia, and I spent an excited night at the flawless Palihotel in downtown Seattle.

After a quick taxi ride from the airport and a smooth check-in, we lounged in our king studio in the fluffy supplied bathrobes, raiding the retro SMEG fridge’s gourmet snacks while watching a movie.

The hotel is just yards from some of Seattle’s best sights, including Pike Place Market and Waterfront Park, but it was the hotel’s Americana-themed The Hart and The Hunter we made a beeline to for a mouth-watering meal.

The next morning we returned to the diner for a knockout breakfast, before heading to Pier 91 to join our ship, MS Eurodam, Holland America’s largest signature-class vessel, which can house over 2,000 passengers.

Our stateroom was spectacular, with a king-size bed, shower room, widescreen TV, balcony, and champagne waiting for us.

Eurodam has it all. Bars, lounges, restaurants, gym, spa, pools, kids’ club, sports court, gallery, library and casino.

Not forgetting the Rolling Stone Lounge, Billboard Onboard, and the two-storey World Stage, perfect for live entertainment.

Before we knew it we were sailing out of Puget Sound, up the coast of Vancouver Island, past Haida Gwaii, and through Stephens Passage, before arriving at Juneau, Alaska’s capital.

While travelling 780 nautical miles to reach our first port, we’d no shortage of things to do onboard. Eurodam has a programme chock-full of activities.

For foodies, the ship offers many tasty options, including the Pinnacle Grill steakhouse, Canaletto Italian and Dive In burgers.

Discover the Scenic Arran Coastal Way

Sampling specialty dining is a must, and Tamarind didn’t disappoint.

The Far East-themed restaurant on the top deck offers sensational ocean views to go with equally sensational fare.

Succulent lobster and shrimp potstickers were followed by Panang red curry and yuzu cheesecake with honey tuile and white chocolate.

Waking as we passed through the calm waters of Stephens Passage, we were gobsmacked by our first glimpse of Alaska.

The vast waterway was bordered by mountains shrouded in low-hanging clouds.

There can’t be many better ways to enjoy breakfast than kicking back on your sun-lounger and watching the world go by with such a breathtaking vista.

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The former AJ mine which was once home to the world’s largest gold-producing mill

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Cruising the Tarr Inlet was truly breathtaking

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Seeing grizzly bears up close at Fortress of the Bear

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Sitka was the capital of Alaska when it was part of Russia

Arriving in the pretty town of Juneau, we enjoyed a canoe trip to Mendenhall Glacier and the former AJ gold mine and Gastineau mill, once the world’s largest gold-producing mill.

After venturing into the 360-foot-long conveyor tunnel, I tried my hand at panning — sadly, I didn’t strike gold.

Mendenhall Glacier is massive — 13 miles long — and forms part of the 1,500-square-mile Juneau Ice Field.

The lake is a perfect spot to paddle out to appreciate the colossal ice sheet.

With just 32,000 people, Juneau is more like a town with quaint shops, restaurants, and jewellery stores.

Alaskan Brewing is an ideal spot to grab a bite, with king crab on the menu.

GO: ALASKA

HERE’S everything you need to know for cruising Alaska

GETTING THERE: Flying from Glasgow to Seattle with Aer Lingus and clear US Customs in Dublin. Flights start from £720pp return. Visit: aerlingus.com

STAYING THERE: Rooms at Palihotel Seattle start from £212 per night. A 10 per cent discount on dining is available for guests. Visit: palisociety.com/hotels/seattle

CRUISE: Cabins on Holland America Line’s 7-day Alaska Explorer cruise start from £1,030pp. Visit: hollandamerica.com/en/gb

MORE INFO: For more information on Alaska visit: visittheusa.co.uk/state/alaska and travelalaska.com

The chilli macaroni cheese with waffle fries and some local beers went down a treat.

Next we headed for Glacier Bay and woke as Eurodam slowly navigated the immense Tarr Inlet.

We gazed at the majestic Margerie Glacier snaking down from the mountains as nearby, the Johns Hopkins Glacier still advances, despite the changing climate.

Later we arrived at Icy Strait Point. Alaska has a rich indigenous history, and just along the coast is the native Tlingit community of Hoonah.

The Point also has the world’s largest ZipRider, as well as wilderness hikes, wildlife watching, and Jeep expeditions.

It’s also home to the former Hoonah Packing Company salmon cannery, now a museum.

Sailing overnight, we arrived in Sitka, where our first stop was Fortress of the Bear, a non-profit rescue providing refuge for orphaned black and brown bears. Seeing the huge creatures up close was a highlight, for sure.

Sitka Sound Science Centre houses the historic Sheldon Jackson Salmon Hatchery, which rears and releases the fish into the ocean, fulfilling a key part of their natural life cycle.

And we enjoyed more animal adventures at the Alaska Raptor Centre, home to majestic birds of prey, including bald and golden eagles. Incredible.

Downtown Sitka is relaxed, with the impressive St. Michael’s Cathedral dominating the centre. The wooden Orthodox Church is a reminder of Russia’s control over the state, which ended in 1867.

All that sightseeing worked up an appetite and we dropped by Ashmo’s seafood truck where  the rockfish tacos were top notch.

Back on board Eurodam in time for happy hour, we unwound with some cocktails before getting dressed for one of the trip’s culinary highlights.

For one night, Alaska’s world-class seafood is showcased by Morimoto by Sea, run by Japanese chef Masaharu Morimoto.

We started with a sushi plate and pork gyozas, followed by tofu curry and shrimp three ways — grilled, battered in tempura and covered in crispy panko crumbs – with a bowl of yakisoba noodles.

The feast finished with dark chocolate spheres melted with caramel sauce — truly divine.

Sailing through the night, we headed for our final Alaskan destination, Ketchikan, a city built on wooden pilings thanks to its fishing heritage.

Exploring downtown, we visited picture-postcard Creek Street — once a notorious red light district, now a proud landmark.

After a coffee break at 55North, we toured Totem Bight State Historical Park, a former indigenous waterfront campground with, as the name suggests, towering totem poles and a replica clan house.

Leaving Ketchikan, we sailed across Queen Charlotte Sound and down to Victoria on Vancouver Island.

A Canadian city on an Alaskan cruise? By maritime law, non-US-registered ships travelling between American ports must stop at a foreign destination.

Nicknamed ‘The Garden City’, Victoria is charmingly vibrant.

Walking along the promenade, we approached the stately British Columbia Legislature, where, on a sprawling lawn, stands a statue of Queen Victoria and a majestic totem pole, symbolising Canada’s colonial and indigenous history.

Read more on the Scottish Sun

Before returning to port, we stopped in at Clive’s Classic Lounge for some cocktails and reflected on our Alaskan odyssey before finally sailing back to the Emerald City.

Now I can honestly say that cruising is no longer a taboo with me but those CalMac ferries have a lot to live up to.

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Paul dining at Marimoto by Sea with ocean views from the table

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The historic boardwalk of Creek Street in KetchikanCredit: Alamy

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A traditional replica clan house at Totem Bight Historic Park near Ketchikan

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The Legislative Assembly of British Columbia and a totem pole in downtown Victoria

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Publish date : 2024-08-02 05:15:00

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