Inside the secretive California town that’s home to Harry and Meghan

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Since my last visit in 2021, the town has recovered from much of the visible damage of the disaster, thanks in large part to the efforts of community organisations who rallied together. But like much of California, floods, fires and storms are as regular as the seasons, and mudslides remain a risk. That beach I mentioned, Refugio, had only just reopened this August after a large sinkhole emerged at the park’s entrance, with many of the palm trees chopped down due to safety concerns.

And yet, as I learnt during that 5.2-magnitude earthquake on a warm August evening, life in Montecito has a way of carrying on. There’s a pleasing regularity to this irregular town. A morning mist hangs above the sea through the summer months, before making way for blue skies in the afternoon. Teslas, Mustangs and SUVs the size of tanks whizz around roundabouts (not quite grasping the notion of indicating). Lizards scuttle on walls and sandpipers zip along the beaches. The unlit streets fall dark after hours. And out of sight, up in the hills and behind high hedges, people who you know well, but who don’t know you, enjoy their portion of paradise in peace.

Eat here If you’re going to dine out around Montecito, you may as well eat with a view. My favourite spots in the area are Padaro Beach Grill, which serves excellent fish tacos in a grassy setting bordered, entertainingly, by the railway line. Reunion Kitchen on East Beach, Santa Barbara, serves up fine portions of fish and chips, while Boathouse at Hendry’s Beach is a diner-style restaurant specialising in pancakes, bottomless coffees and great views. I’m also a fan of the shamelessly naff saloon-style bar in Summerland, called Nugget.

Stay here The aforementioned Rosewood Miramar Beach is the place to see and be seen, but it comes with a price tag fit for people who don’t need to check the price tag. The same goes for the San Ysidro Ranch Hotel, up in the hills. There are plenty of more reasonably priced options in Santa Barbara: Telegraph experts have reviewed the best of them.

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Inside the secretive California town that’s home to Harry and Meghan

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