How denim became the uniform of America

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Rare is the person without an item of denim in their wardrobe. Whether that’s a Primark jacket, some well-loved Levi’s or a pair of £1,550 Balenciaga jeans will depend on your age, taste and income.

Whoever you are, you’re one of the estimated 80 per cent of the population who’s owned a piece of denim clothing, contributing to its supremacy as arguably the most popular fabric in the world for the last 80 years, with the global market projected to be worth $95 billion by 2030.

Of far more interest than denim’s statistics, however, is its story. For anyone after a deeper knowledge of their favourite fabric than the one afforded by the glib description provided by their online retailer of choice (‘wide leg/high rise/turn-up cuffs’), a new book, Denim: The Fabric That Built America, will act as a tall, cool glass of water.

Authors Graham Marsh and Tony Nourmand were inspired by a 1935 project commissioned by President Roosevelt’s government, in which a group of photographers travelled across the United States documenting the country’s poverty, and the government’s relief efforts – a nine-year undertaking ending in 1944.

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